If your electric oven won’t heat up, cooks unevenly, or keeps tripping the breaker, you’re not alone. These aren’t rare glitches-they’re everyday problems that show up in homes across Hamilton, Toronto, and beyond. Most people assume they need a new oven, but the truth is, electric oven faults are often simple, cheap, and easy to fix yourself. You don’t always need to replace the whole unit. Let’s cut through the noise and show you exactly what’s likely wrong, how to check it, and whether you can fix it without calling a technician.
Heating Element Burned Out
The heating element is the most common failure point in any electric oven. It’s the coil you see glowing red when the oven is on. Over time, it gets brittle from repeated heating and cooling cycles. Eventually, it cracks or breaks. If your oven doesn’t heat at all-or only heats in one spot-the element is the first thing to check.
Here’s how to test it: Turn off the power at the breaker. Open the oven door and remove the racks. Look at the top and bottom elements. If you see blackened spots, bubbles, or a visible break in the coil, it’s dead. You can also use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set it to ohms (Ω), touch the probes to the terminals on the element, and if it reads infinite resistance or no reading at all, the element is gone. Replacement elements cost between $30 and $70, and most can be swapped in under 30 minutes with a screwdriver and some basic hand tools.
Thermostat or Temperature Sensor Failure
Ever notice your oven bakes cookies like they’re in a toaster? Or that your roast takes twice as long as the recipe says? That’s usually not your fault-it’s the thermostat or temperature sensor. These components tell the oven when to turn the heating element on and off. When they go bad, the oven either overheats or never gets hot enough.
Electric ovens built after 2010 usually use a temperature sensor (a thin metal probe near the back wall), not a traditional thermostat. If the sensor is faulty, the oven might display an error code like “F3” or “Err.” If you don’t see a code, try this: Preheat the oven to 350°F. After 20 minutes, stick a reliable oven thermometer inside. If the actual temperature is more than 25°F off, the sensor is likely the culprit. Replacing it costs under $40 and takes about 15 minutes. Just unplug the oven, remove the back panel, unplug the sensor, and swap it out.
Broken Oven Door Seal
A leaking door seal might seem minor, but it’s one of the sneakiest energy wasters. If the rubber gasket around your oven door is cracked, brittle, or falling off, heat escapes every time you close the door. You’ll notice longer preheat times, uneven baking, and higher electricity bills. Worse, the oven might shut off early because the control board thinks it’s already hot enough.
Check the seal by closing the door on a piece of paper. Try to pull the paper out. If it slides out easily, the seal is weak. You can also run your hand along the door edge while the oven is preheating-any warmth escaping means a leak. Replacement gaskets are specific to your oven model, but they’re easy to order online. Just find your model number (usually on the inside of the door frame) and search for “oven door gasket [your model].” Installation is usually a snap-just peel off the old one and press the new one in.
Faulty Igniter (for Gas Ovens Only)
Wait-this one doesn’t apply. Electric ovens don’t have igniters. That’s a gas oven thing. But if you’re confused and think your electric oven has one, you’re not alone. Many people mix up the two. Electric ovens use heating elements, not gas flames. So if your oven won’t heat and you’re looking for an igniter, you’re wasting time. Focus on the elements, sensor, and door seal instead.
Control Board or Relay Failure
This is the most expensive and hardest fix, but it’s also the least common. The control board is the brain of the oven. It sends power to the heating elements, manages the clock, and handles error codes. If the board fails, you might see no display at all, random error codes, or the oven turning on and off by itself.
Before you replace the board, rule out everything else. A bad element, sensor, or door seal can sometimes cause the board to act up. If you’ve checked those and the problem persists, try resetting the oven. Unplug it for 10 minutes, then plug it back in. If it still behaves oddly, the board may be failing. Replacement boards cost $150 to $300, and installation often requires removing the entire control panel. If you’re not comfortable with wiring, call a pro. But don’t assume the board is broken just because the oven isn’t working-it’s usually something simpler.
Tripped Circuit Breaker or Wiring Issue
Electric ovens draw a lot of power-usually 240 volts. If the circuit breaker trips every time you use the oven, it’s not a coincidence. It could be an overloaded circuit, a short in the wiring, or a failing oven component drawing too much current.
First, check the breaker panel. Is the oven on its own dedicated circuit? Most modern homes are wired this way. If it’s sharing a circuit with the microwave or dishwasher, that’s a red flag. Next, look for signs of overheating: melted insulation on the power cord, discolored outlet, or a burning smell near the back of the oven. If you see any of these, stop using the oven. Call an electrician. Don’t try to fix wiring yourself unless you’re certified. Faulty wiring can start fires.
Why You Shouldn’t Ignore These Problems
Some people think, “It’s just an oven-I’ll live with it.” But ignoring these faults can lead to bigger problems. A broken door seal means your heater runs longer, which spikes your electricity bill. A failing element can overload the control board. A tripped breaker might indicate a dangerous short. In Hamilton, winters are long and ovens get heavy use. A faulty oven doesn’t just ruin your dinner-it can cost you hundreds in wasted energy over a few months.
Most of these fixes cost less than $100 and take under an hour. You don’t need to be a technician. With a multimeter, a screwdriver, and 10 minutes of YouTube tutorials, you can save yourself a service call. Many repair shops charge $150 just to show up. If you’re comfortable with basic tools, you can fix 8 out of 10 common oven faults yourself.
Quick Checklist: What to Check First
- Is the oven completely dead? → Check the circuit breaker and power cord.
- Does it heat unevenly? → Inspect the top and bottom heating elements for damage.
- Does it take forever to preheat? → Test the temperature sensor with a thermometer.
- Do you feel heat leaking from the door? → Replace the door gasket.
- Is there an error code on the display? → Look up your model’s code online.
If you’ve checked all these and still have issues, the control board might be the problem. But don’t jump to that conclusion. Most problems are simple. Start with the basics.
Why does my electric oven take so long to heat up?
A slow preheat usually means one of three things: a weak heating element, a failing temperature sensor, or a damaged door seal. Each of these causes the oven to lose heat or not get hot enough. Test the element with a multimeter, check the sensor with a thermometer, and inspect the door gasket for gaps. Replacing any of these parts typically cuts preheat time back to normal.
Can a bad oven element cause the breaker to trip?
Yes. If the heating element is cracked or shorting out, it can draw too much current and trip the breaker. This is especially common if the element is touching the oven wall or if insulation around the wires has melted. Always unplug the oven before inspecting the element. If you find damage, replace it immediately. Continuing to use a faulty element risks fire or permanent damage to the control board.
How do I find my oven’s model number?
The model number is usually printed on a label inside the oven door frame, on the side of the oven cavity, or on the back panel. If you can’t find it, open the door and look along the top or sides. It’s often a mix of letters and numbers like “FGE27TFS” or “Jenn-Air JES8950.” Once you have it, search online for parts, manuals, or troubleshooting guides specific to your model.
Is it worth repairing an old electric oven?
If your oven is under 10 years old and the issue is a heating element, sensor, or door seal, repair is almost always worth it. Parts cost less than $100, and labor is minimal. If the oven is over 15 years old and the control board is failing, replacement might make more sense. But don’t assume age means replacement-many 12-year-old ovens are still perfectly functional with a $50 part. Check the cost of repair vs. a new unit before deciding.
Can I replace an oven element myself?
Yes, absolutely. Most oven elements are held in place by two screws and plug into a socket. Just turn off the power, remove the racks, unscrew the element, unplug it, and swap in the new one. Take a photo of the wiring before you disconnect it so you know how to reconnect it. Replacement elements are model-specific, so use your oven’s model number to order the right one. It’s one of the easiest DIY appliance repairs you can do.
Electric ovens are built to last. Most failures aren’t catastrophic-they’re signs of wear, not death. With a little curiosity and basic tools, you can fix most issues before they cost you hundreds. Start with the element. Check the seal. Test the sensor. You might be surprised how simple the fix really is.
