Oven Not Heating? Common Causes and No-Heat Fixes You Can Try Today

Your dinner plans are dead in the water and the oven stays cold. The good news: most no-heat problems come down to a handful of parts you can check quickly without tearing the whole appliance apart. I’ll show you how to pinpoint the fault in minutes, what you can realistically fix yourself, and when it’s smarter to call a pro. I’ve fixed enough “dead” ovens to know: a simple igniter or element takes the trophy more often than any fancy control board.

TL;DR: Quick Answers, Likely Causes, and What You’re Here to Do

oven not heating? Start here.

• Gas ovens: 70-80% of no-heat calls are a weak or dead igniter. If the broiler works but bake doesn’t, the bake igniter is the prime suspect.
• Electric ovens: The bake element fails more often than the control board. A visible blister or crack is a giveaway. No damage? Test it.
• Both types: A bad temperature sensor (RTD), blown thermal fuse, tripped breaker, or a faulty door switch can block heat.
• Smart step: Try broil. If broil heats but bake doesn’t, the issue is in the bake circuit (element or igniter, not the entire oven).
• Safety: Power off (unplug or kill the breaker). Gas off if you smell gas. Don’t bypass safety devices.

Jobs you probably want to complete right now:

• Figure out if the problem is gas vs. electric and pick the right checklist.
• Run a fast set of tests (no special tools) to isolate the faulty part.
• Decide: DIY part swap or call a tech? What will it cost and how long will it take?
• Prevent a repeat with simple airflow and cleaning habits.

Step-by-Step: Diagnose Gas vs. Electric Ovens Without Guessing

Before you do anything: unplug the oven or shut off the circuit breaker. For gas, close the gas valve if you’ll remove parts. If you smell gas anytime, stop and call your gas utility or a licensed tech.

First, confirm the basics:

1. Power: Electric ovens often run on a split 240V breaker. If one leg trips, lights and fan may work but no heat. Flip both halves of the breaker fully OFF, then back ON.
2. Clock/controls: Some models won’t heat if they think they’re in timed cook or Sabbath mode. Cancel everything and set to regular bake at 350°F.
3. Door: Many ovens won’t heat if the control thinks the door is open. Close firmly, listen for the latch switch click.

If the basics check out, go by fuel type.

Gas Oven: Won’t Heat or Only Heats Sometimes

1. Watch the igniter.
   • Set Bake 350°F. Look through the lower vents. You should see a dull orange glow within 30-60 seconds. No glow? The igniter likely failed or isn’t getting power.
   • Glow but no flame after 90 seconds? The igniter may be too weak (not drawing enough current to open the gas valve).
2. Smell test.
   • No gas smell is normal-modern ovens use hot-surface igniters that open the valve only when hot enough. If you do smell gas, stop and ventilate. Don’t relight. Call a pro.
3. Quick split test: Try Broil.
   • If broil works fast but bake doesn’t, your bake igniter is almost certainly the issue (or the bake gas valve coil, but that’s less common).
4. Meter checks (if you’re comfortable):
   • Clamp meter: Many flat Norton igniters need about 2.5-3.0A; round style about 3.2-3.6A to open the valve. If it glows but current is low, replace the igniter.
   • Continuity: With power off, confirm the igniter isn’t open-circuit. If it is, replace.
5. Wiring and valve.
   • If a new igniter still won’t light the flame, check connectors and harness for heat damage. Rarely, the safety valve fails; swap only after confirming igniter draw is correct.

Common gas culprits in plain language:

• Igniter (top cause). Glows weakly or not at all.
• Temperature sensor (RTD). If it falsely reads very hot, the control won’t heat. Typical spec is ~1080 Ω at room temp (around 70°F) per Whirlpool/GE service data.
• High-limit/thermal fuse. One-time safety; often blows after a self-clean cycle or blocked vents.
• Control board bake relay. If broil works but bake never gets power and the igniter tests good, the relay may be stuck or burnt.

Electric Oven: Won’t Heat or Heats Too Slowly

1. Element glance test.
   • Look at the bake element (bottom). Any blisters, cracks, bright spots, or breaks? That’s a failed element.
   • Try Broil. If broil glows red quickly, power is likely fine. The bake element or its circuit is the issue.
2. Continuity test (power off, disconnect at least one terminal):
   • Bake element should show continuity (often 15-40 Ω). Open-circuit = replace.
   • Wiggle test harness at the rear where the element passes through; those spade terminals overheat and burn off.
3. Temperature sensor (RTD):
   • Unplug the sensor connector. Measure resistance at room temp. Expect ~1080 Ω at 70°F; resistance rises with heat. If reading is way off, replace.
4. Thermal fuse / high-limit:
   • Some models hide a one-shot thermal fuse on the rear panel. If it’s open, the oven stays cold. Replace and fix the cause (blocked vents, failed cooling fan).
5. Control board and relays:
   • If the element and sensor test good but the board never sends power to bake, the bake relay is likely burnt. You can hear/feel a click on start; no click is a clue. Board repair or replacement fixes it.

Heat but not enough? If your oven warms a little but won’t reach set temp:

• Electric: Half the 240V is missing (tripped leg) or the bake element is weak/damaged.
• Gas: Weak igniter lights late; you get small, inconsistent flames. Replace the igniter.
• Both: Bad sensor or poor calibration. You can often calibrate ±30°F in settings after verifying hardware is healthy.

Safety notes I live by: kill power before pulling panels, wear cut-resistant gloves, and don’t touch ceramic igniters with bare hands. If Bailey (my dog) is in the kitchen, I park him outside the danger zone-tails and hot elements don’t mix.

Real-World Examples, Costs, and Time Estimates (So You Can Plan)

These are the fixes I see most in the field and what they usually cost in parts if you DIY. Prices are 2025 ballparks and vary by brand and model.

Electric example: Your oven lights and fan work, but it won’t preheat. Broil gets red-hot fast. You pull the bottom panel and see a burnt spot on the bake element. That’s a $40 part and a 20-minute swap. Unplug, remove two screws, pull the element forward, swap spade connectors, reinstall. Done.

Gas example: You set bake to 350°F, the igniter glows orange, but no flame after 90 seconds. A quick clamp-meter shows 2.1A on a flat igniter (too low). Replace the igniter and you’re back in business. Expect $60-$100 for the igniter and 30-45 minutes.

Post-self-clean no heat: The oven runs self-clean, gets pizza-oven hot, then never heats again. That often blows the thermal fuse or cooks the control board’s bake relay. Check the fuse first-it’s cheaper and common. If the fuse is open, replace it and avoid packed foil on racks (blocks airflow) and verify cooling fan operation.

Smart ovens (2025 note): If you have a connected oven, check the app for fault codes. Some brands show F1-F3 type codes or plain-English messages like “Temp Sensor Fault.” These are handy and usually accurate.

What about calibration? If food is always undercooked, but the oven clearly heats, your sensor may be fine and the oven just needs calibration in settings (+/- up to 30°F). Confirm with an oven thermometer first-don’t guess.

Checklists, Pro Tips, and a No-Heat Decision Tree

Use these quick lists to avoid rabbit holes.

10-Minute No-Heat Checklist (Both Types)

• Breaker reset: Fully OFF then ON. Electric needs both legs.
• Cancel timers/modes: Exit delayed start, Sabbath, or lock.
• Try Broil: If broil heats, the oven has power; focus on bake circuit.
• Door switch: Press to verify click; look for a door-ajar icon.
• Error codes: Check display or app; note the exact code.
• Visuals: Burnt element, loose wires, scorched terminals.
• Vent clearance: Clear the rear/top vents; don’t block with foil.

Gas-Specific Shortlist

• Igniter glow in 30-60s? If no, replace igniter.
• Glows but no flame in 90s? Likely weak igniter; check amps.
• Broil works, bake doesn’t? Bake igniter almost certain.
• After replacement, recheck flame: steady blue flames, not lazy yellow.

Electric-Specific Shortlist

• Broil works, bake doesn’t? Test/replace bake element.
• No red glow on preheat? Check for 240V at terminal block (pro check) and verify breaker.
• Sensor ~1080 Ω at 70°F? If not, replace it.
• After element swap, inspect rear spade connectors for heat damage.

Decision Tree (Plain English)

1. Does broil heat? If yes, your oven has power; go to bake circuit.
2. Gas + no bake: Watch igniter. No glow → bad igniter or no power to it. Glow/no flame → weak igniter → replace.
3. Electric + no bake: Inspect element. Burnt or open → replace. Sensor way off → replace. Everything good → board/relay.
4. No heat at all (broil dead too): Check breaker, thermal fuse, incoming power. If electric reads only 120V, one leg is out.

Pro Tips

• Don’t touch ceramic igniters with bare hands; oils cause hot spots. Use the wrapper or gloves.
• Photograph wiring before you pull anything. Saves guesswork later.
• Replace spade terminals that look dull or brown-they’re heat-soaked.
• After any repair, run the oven empty to burn off residues before cooking.
• Skip self-clean right before a big holiday meal. It’s a fuse/relay killer.

Maintenance to Prevent No-Heat

• Keep vent paths clear-no foil over racks or blocking rear vents.
• Wipe spills quickly. Charred sugar and grease trap heat near sensors and fuses.
• Once a year: Pull the oven, vacuum dust around cooling fans and rear panels.
• For gas: Make sure the flame spreader isn’t warped or clogged.

FAQ and Next Steps (DIY vs. Pro, Safety, and Brand Quirks)

Is it safe to use the oven if it sometimes heats and sometimes doesn’t?
Not really. Intermittent heating can mean a loose connection that gets hot. Heat plus loose terminals equals risk. Fix it before cooking.

How do I know it’s the control board?
When the element/igniter and sensor test good, the thermal fuse is fine, and the board never sends voltage to bake. You may hear no relay click at start. Some boards show a “relay stuck” or generic fault code.

What does the temperature sensor read at room temp?
Roughly 1080 Ω at 70°F for many Whirlpool/GE/Bosch models. If you see 500 Ω or 2500 Ω at room temp, it’s lying to the control and needs replacing. Manufacturers’ technical sheets list exact specs.

Can an igniter glow and still be bad?
Yes. A weak igniter can glow but not draw enough current to open the gas valve. That’s the classic “glow, no flame” scenario.

Why did self-clean kill my oven?
Self-clean drives temps high enough to stress fuses, relays, and door latches. It’s common to lose a thermal fuse or a board right after. If it failed, replace the bad part and consider shorter or manual clean methods next time.

How long should preheat take?
Most 30-inch ovens reach 350°F in 10-15 minutes. If you’re at 200°F after 15 minutes, something’s wrong: element, igniter, sensor, or power.

When should I call a pro?
If you smell gas, see scorched wiring you’re not comfortable repairing, or you lack the tools to validate live voltage safely. Also if the oven is under warranty-let the manufacturer handle it.

Brand notes (2025):
GE/Whirlpool: RTD sensor spec ~1080 Ω at room temp; easy to swap. Samsung/LG: Control boards more integrated; door locks can trigger no-heat after self-clean. Bosch/Thermador: Cooling fans and airflow are critical-blocked vents trip safety.

Next Steps by Scenario

• Gas, igniter dead: Order the exact part by model number. Replace with the oven unplugged and gas off. Two screws, two wires, careful handling.
• Electric, bake element cracked: Swap element. If rear terminals are burnt, crimp new high-temp spades.
• Heats low and slow: Verify both legs of power; test sensor; calibrate only after hardware checks out.
• Dead after self-clean: Test thermal fuse first, then relay output from the board.

Tool list to make your life easier

• Basic multimeter (ohms and AC volts) and a clamp meter for gas igniter current.
• Nut drivers (1/4", 5/16"), Phillips screwdriver, needle-nose pliers.
• High-temp spade terminals and crimp tool for tired connectors.
• Work light and heat-resistant gloves.

A quick word on safety sources
Manufacturers’ service sheets (GE, Whirlpool, Bosch) specify sensor resistances and relay logic. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission stresses de-energizing appliances before servicing and never bypassing safety devices. Those two habits will keep you and your kitchen out of trouble.

If you’ve followed the steps and the oven still won’t heat, grab the exact model number (from the door frame or lower drawer) and call a trusted local tech. Tell them what you tested-"broil works, bake element open" or "igniter glows at 2.2A, no flame"-and you’ll get faster, cheaper service. And yes, if you’re wondering, Bailey always thinks a fixed oven means immediate snacks. He might be right.